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Eating New Mexico

good eats & good times in the Land of Enchantment

What Are Biscochitos? The History and Origin

ZIA, May 18, 2025May 18, 2025

What Are Biscochitos? The Rich History and Cultural Origin of New Mexico’s Beloved Cookie

Have you ever tried a cookie that tastes like nowhere else in America? Biscochitos are special cookies from New Mexico with a flavor you won’t forget! These crisp, anise-flavored treats dusted with cinnamon sugar have been part of New Mexican culture for hundreds of years.

In this article, you’ll learn all about these unique cookies – from their Spanish roots to how they became New Mexico’s official state cookie. We’ll explore the special ingredients that make them taste so good and why they’re such an important part of holidays and family celebrations in New Mexico. By the end, you’ll understand why these cookies are so treasured and maybe even feel inspired to try making them yourself!

What Are Biscochitos? Understanding New Mexico’s Traditional Cookie

Biscochitos (sometimes spelled bizcochitos) are crisp, shortbread-like cookies flavored with anise seeds and topped with cinnamon sugar. The name comes from the Spanish word “bizcocho,” which means “biscuit.”

These cookies aren’t just any sweet treat – they hold a special place in New Mexican history and culture. In 1989, New Mexico made biscochitos its official state cookie, making it the first state in America to have an official cookie!

The Distinctive Ingredients That Make Biscochitos Special

What makes these cookies so unique? It all comes down to a few key ingredients:

  • Lard: Traditional biscochitos use lard (pig fat) instead of butter. This gives them their distinctive texture – crisp on the outside but tender when you bite into them.
  • Anise seeds: These small seeds give biscochitos their special licorice-like flavor.
  • Cinnamon sugar: Fresh-baked cookies are rolled in a mix of cinnamon and sugar while still warm.
  • Flour, sugar, and baking powder: These basic cookie ingredients form the foundation.

The dough is rolled out and cut into shapes, often stars, circles, or the fleur-de-lis pattern that shows their Spanish heritage. When baked just right, they have a crumbly, melt-in-your-mouth texture that keeps people coming back for more!

How Biscochitos Are Different from Other Traditional Holiday Cookies

How do biscochitos stand out from other holiday cookies? Let’s compare:

Biscochito FeatureOther Holiday Cookies
Anise seed flavorUsually vanilla, chocolate, or fruit flavors
Made with lardTypically made with butter
Cinnamon-sugar coatingOften iced or decorated with sprinkles
Crisp, shortbread textureChewy or soft textures are more common

While many holiday cookies are sweet and rich, biscochitos have a unique spiced quality. The anise flavor might remind you a bit of licorice, but much more subtle and pleasant. Even people who don’t like licorice often enjoy biscochitos!

What Are Biscochitos? The History and Origin of New Mexico's State Cookie

The Fascinating History of Biscochitos in New Mexico

Spanish Settlers and the Origins of Biscochitos

The story of biscochitos begins over 400 years ago. Spanish settlers arrived in what is now New Mexico in the late 16th century. They brought their cooking traditions with them, including recipes for sweet biscuits.

These early cookies were likely based on a Spanish shortbread called “mantecados,” which also used lard as a main ingredient. Over time, the recipe changed as settlers adapted to ingredients available in the New World.

New Mexican grandmothers (abuelas) kept these recipes alive through generations. Each family often had their special version of the recipe, changing small details but keeping the core ingredients the same.

The Journey from Spain to Santa Fe: How Biscochitos Evolved

As the cookie traveled from Spain to Santa Fe and Albuquerque, it took on local flavors. The use of anise seeds became stronger in the New Mexican version, creating the signature taste we know today.

Local families made the cookie their own. Some added a splash of brandy or wine to the dough. Others changed the shape or the amount of spice. But the heart of the recipe – lard, anise, and cinnamon sugar – stayed the same.

This cookie shows how food carries culture. The biscochito is a perfect example of Spanish influence that took root and became something uniquely New Mexican.

Biscochitos: The Official State Cookie of New Mexico

The 1989 Legislation That Made History

In 1989, something special happened in New Mexico’s government. The state lawmakers (called legislators) passed a bill making the biscochito the official state cookie of New Mexico. This was a big deal – no other state had an official cookie before this!

The bill recognized the importance of biscochitos to New Mexican culture. It noted how these cookies had been part of New Mexican life for generations and deserved special recognition.

State Senator Cisco McSorley introduced the legislation. There was even a friendly debate about the spelling – “biscochito” or “bizcochito” – but in the end, “biscochito” became the official spelling in the law.

Celebrating Biscochitos in New Mexican Cultural Events

Today, biscochitos are stars at cultural events across New Mexico. During the Christmas season, they appear at nearly every gathering. But they’re not just for Christmas!

You’ll find biscochitos at:

  • Community feast days honoring patron saints
  • Weddings and family celebrations
  • Cultural festivals in Santa Fe, Albuquerque, and small towns
  • School events and fundraisers

Each region in New Mexico might make its cookies a little differently. Families in northern New Mexico might use more anise, while southern recipes might have a stronger cinnamon flavor. Some areas cut them in diamond shapes, while others prefer fleur-de-lis or simple rounds.

Why Biscochitos Are Treasured in Hispanic Family Traditions

From Christmas Traditions to Día de los Muertos

In Hispanic families across New Mexico, biscochitos mark special times of year. They’re most famous as a Christmas tradition. Families gather to make hundreds of cookies to share with neighbors and relatives during the holiday season.

The smell of anise and cinnamon filling a home has become a sign that Christmas is coming. Many people remember standing on chairs as children to help their grandmothers roll out the dough and cut the shapes.

Biscochitos also appear during Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebrations. Families place them on altars as offerings to remember loved ones who have passed away.

These cookies connect people to their roots. When someone bites into a biscochito made from a family recipe, they’re tasting the same flavors their ancestors enjoyed generations ago.

The Role of Biscochitos in Weddings and Special Occasions

At New Mexican weddings, biscochitos often appear alongside the wedding cake. Serving these traditional cookies shows respect for family heritage and culture.

There’s a lovely custom at some weddings where the couple serves biscochitos to honor their grandparents and parents. This gesture recognizes the passing down of family traditions.

During feast days, when communities celebrate their patron saints, neighbors share biscochitos as a sign of welcome and friendship. The cookies become a way to strengthen community bonds.

What Are Biscochitos?

The Authentic Ingredients of Traditional Biscochitos

The Essential Role of Lard in Traditional Recipes

Let’s talk about lard! While some modern recipes use butter or shortening, traditional biscochitos must use lard. But why is lard so important?

Lard creates the perfect texture – a cookie that’s crisp yet tender. It also gives a rich flavor that butter simply can’t match. In Spanish colonial cooking, lard was a staple ingredient, much more common than butter.

Making biscochitos with lard connects bakers to history. When early Spanish settlers came to New Mexico, they brought pigs with them. Using lard in cooking became part of daily life.

Today, some people try making biscochitos with vegetable shortening or butter. While these versions can taste good, most New Mexican families will tell you they’re not the real thing. The texture and flavor change significantly without lard.

Anise, Cinnamon, and Sugar: The Flavor Trinity

The special taste of biscochitos comes from three key flavors working together:

  1. Anise seeds provide the main flavor. These small seeds give a subtle licorice taste that’s the signature of biscochitos. Some recipes call for crushed seeds while others use whole seeds or even anise extract.
  2. Cinnamon adds warmth and spice. The cookies are rolled in cinnamon sugar while still hot from the oven, creating a sweet, spicy coating.
  3. Sugar balances the spice flavors. Traditional recipes use plain white sugar, both in the dough and in the coating.

This flavor combination grew from what was available. Anise seeds were prized in Spanish cooking and could be grown in New Mexico’s climate. Cinnamon was a treasured spice brought on trading routes from Mexico.

How to Make Authentic Homemade Biscochitos

Essential Tips from New Mexican Grandmothers

Want to make biscochitos like a true New Mexican abuela (grandmother)? Here are some time-tested tips:

  • Chill the dough before rolling it out. This makes it easier to handle.
  • Don’t overwork the dough. Mix just until the ingredients come together for the best texture.
  • Roll the dough to about 1/4 inch thick. Too thin, and they’ll burn; too thick, and they won’t be crisp.
  • The dough should be cool to the touch but not cold when you put it in the oven.
  • Watch closely while baking. The perfect biscochito is lightly golden, not brown.
  • Roll in cinnamon sugar while still warm – this helps the coating stick.

Many traditional bakers say you should handle the eggs just right, too. They recommend beating the eggs slightly before adding them to the dough mixture.

For the complete authentic recipe, check out our detailed biscochito recipe post! [Note: This would link to your recipe article]

Regional Variations from Albuquerque to Santa Fe

Even within New Mexico, biscochito recipes vary from place to place:

  • Albuquerque style often includes a small amount of orange juice or zest.
  • Santa Fe recipes might use wine or brandy for extra flavor.
  • Northern New Mexico tends to use more anise for a stronger flavor.
  • Southern regions sometimes make them with a hint of vanilla along with the anise.

Some families pass down recipes calling for unique additions like finely chopped piñon nuts or a dash of cinnamon in the dough, as well as the coating.

No matter the small differences, all authentic biscochitos share the core ingredients and methods that make them special. Want to try making your batch of traditional New Mexican biscochitos? Check out our authentic recipe with step-by-step instructions!

Ready to bake a batch of your own? Check out our traditional biscochitos recipe!
Biscochitos recipe

Frequently Asked Questions About Biscochitos

Are biscochitos Mexican or New Mexican?

Biscochitos are New Mexican, not Mexican. They developed from Spanish cookie recipes that came to the area that is now New Mexico long before it was part of the United States.

While Mexico and New Mexico share some culinary roots, biscochitos are specifically tied to New Mexican Hispanic culture. They’ve become a symbol of New Mexico’s unique heritage, which blends Spanish, Native American, and American influences.

You’ll find these cookies most commonly in Santa Fe, Albuquerque, and other New Mexican towns. They aren’t typically part of Mexican holiday traditions outside of areas with strong New Mexican influence.

Can you make biscochitos without lard?

Yes, you can make biscochitos without lard, but they won’t be traditional. Many modern recipes use butter or vegetable shortening instead of lard to accommodate different dietary needs.

The texture and flavor will change if you don’t use lard. Cookies made with butter tend to be less crisp and have a different taste. Vegetable shortening produces a texture closer to the original but lacks some of the flavor.

Hispanic families who keep traditional methods often say that using lard is essential for authentic biscochitos. However, many people make adaptations based on their dietary preferences and still enjoy the cookies.

Where did biscochitos originally come from?

Biscochitos originally came from Spain. Spanish colonists brought their cookie and pastry recipes when they settled in what is now New Mexico in the late 16th century.

The cookies are likely descended from Spanish shortbread cookies called “mantecados,” which also used lard as a main ingredient. Over time, the New Mexican version took on its character with the addition of anise seeds and cinnamon sugar.

European cookie traditions were adapted to use ingredients available in the New World. This blend of Old World techniques and New World ingredients created something unique to New Mexican cuisine.

What do biscochitos taste like?

Biscochitos have a unique flavor that many people find addictive! The main taste comes from anise seeds, which give a mild licorice flavor. This is balanced by the sweetness of sugar and the warmth of cinnamon.

The texture is crisp and somewhat crumbly – similar to shortbread but lighter. When you bite into one, it should be crisp at first and then melt in your mouth.

If you’ve never had anise flavor before, imagine a subtle hint of licorice, but more delicate and sweet. Even people who don’t typically like licorice often enjoy biscochitos because the anise flavor is not overwhelming.

Biscochitos: A Taste of New Mexican Heritage

Check out our traditional biscochitos recipe!

Biscochitos are more than just cookies – they’re a delicious window into New Mexico’s rich cultural history. From their Spanish origins to becoming America’s first official state cookie, they tell the story of generations of New Mexican families.

What makes these cookies special? It’s partly the unique combination of lard, anise, and cinnamon. But it’s also the love and tradition baked into each batch. When families gather to make biscochitos during Christmas or special celebrations, they’re keeping alive a tradition that stretches back hundreds of years.

Whether you call them biscochitos or bizcochitos, these crisp, anise-flavored treats are an important piece of New Mexican heritage. They connect modern bakers to their ancestors and bring families together around recipes passed down through generations.

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